Waking up at 8.30 after a fantastic sleep, I decided to head to the mountains today. My new Dutch friends helped me with sorting out the local SIM card, which wasn’t working right. Turns out I didn’t select the right option on the info sheet that I never received.
After a quick brekkie, I set off. Getting there without the convenience of a direct taxi ride was going to be a mission though. Starting with bus 63 at Ramstar stop on Nazerbayev avenue just after the big shopping center. I get off at First Presidents Park, take a few snaps of the extravagant homage to the first and only president of this nation, and walk over to the bus stop for the 28.
Entrance to First President's Park
I couldn't shake the fear that I would pass the road to the mountains and end up at some remote village half an hour drive from entry, so I kept checking my phone. I quickly discover that the route ends at the actual intersection itself. Upon hopping out of the bus at a remote village at the foot of the mountains, the realization hits me that the hike uphill will probably take me a good few hours to walk. I decided to try my luck at hitchhiking! In Kazakhstan of all places!
I must've stood here for a good half hour while waiting to hitchhike
After a while of nobody pulling up, I begin wondering whether this was a good idea to start with. Perhaps I should just head back and try taking a taxi tomorrow. And at that moment a car pulls over. A man with an Islamic cap and his young children in the back seat. He informs me in straight-forward Russian that he is driving only a few km's up the road, so I get out in the middle of nowhere (no turning back no), and greet his friends who ask the mandatory Hi, what is your name, where are you from Russian equivalents. I have no other choice but to continue on foot. Eventually, a young Kazakh dude sees my unfruitful thumb waving efforts and brings me a beer out of sympathy. Just at that moment a car eventually pulls over, and this time I hitch a ride with an entire van full of Russian and Kazakh Muslims, and a Tajik in the back row. I wanted to take my beer that I just opened on board, but was quickly told it cannot enter the van, so I left it with the bewildered Kazakh dude.
The beat-up Toyota Delica. The condition it was in, I wouldn't have been surprised if the owner actually drove it over from Japan
The ride itself was more interesting than I would have expected, with some great views. The elderly Tajik man took an interest me and kept asking questions I didn't understand. He seemed really overjoyed that my first name was Adam (according to Islam the first prophet ever) and spoke to me about his religion even though I didn't get half of what he was saying. The van overheated a few times, and as a result, the other passengers kept the sliding door open for the rest of the journey! On the way, we picked up a couple of Polish hitchhikers and eventually arrived.
The picturesque eastern shore of Big Almaty Lake
Photos don't do this lake as much justice as it deserves in my opinion. It is simply one of the most beautiful places I have found myself in. The few hours that I spent here definitely weren't enough. The lake was a picturesque shade of blue, calm water, and the surrounding peaks hugging the lake. Snow and ice were still melting in some parts of the lake, the springtime thaw had started probably no less than a couple of weeks ago. It was amazing to see parts of the lake frozen as well as shattered ice on the banks, even though the mercury was currently over 20c, t-shirt weather.
Even though the temperature was in the 20's, the ice still hadn't all melted since the start of the Spring thaw
The random dunny. Legend has it it's haunted
On the way back to the overlooking hill I chose a shortcut up a steep rocky scramble and noticed a few ticks along the way. Feeling saturated due to having left my water bottle in the van, I bought a chai off a roadside coffee mobile and observed the locals while sipping it. A lot of young adults evidently come here for car cruises and to show off their sound-systems, something comparable to western car culture, but with strong Russian overtones. A couple of Kazakh soldiers came to hang out as well. There was even a shitter nearby, albeit one that had been padlocked incorrectly. As soon as I was relaxed enough I began the trip back.
One of the students hanging out the window Kazakh style
After a few minutes, I hitched a ride with a carload of Kazakh students - they spoke English! I'd say they were in their early 20s. They had been there with some other friends who were riding in different cars so every now and then they hung out the wind and sat on the sill, except for the driver of course. After a couple of km's they stopped so I got out and continued my trek, only to be picked up again 15 minutes later. And once again they stopped so once again I continued walking. I came across a picnic area with traditional charcoal grills and yurts for sitting down and eating.
A family spending an afternoon at a roadside Yurt camp
Eventually, I hitched a ride with a couple of dudes who requested 1000 tenge for the trouble. They asked where to drop me off so I gave the hostel address. Instead of taking me there they dropped me off at First President's Park. I guess not all locals are as open and welcoming as those students. Once back in the hostel I left the backpack, exchanged some equipment and ventured out to look for some nice Shashlyk grill to experience. None of that tonight unfortunately and after leaving a power bank on a bus seat, I resigned and settled on the local Burgerking.
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