Tosor

Day 20 - Off to Lake Issyk Kul

Descent from Altyn Arashan

The homestay served us just pasta and tea for breakfast this morning. My German friends and I parted ways as they were in a hurry, and after checking out I decided to explore the river valley. With just a slight detour I was soon back on track and off towards civilization by 9.30.

I met a bunch of Kyrgyz, Asian Taavay and 3 other blokes halfway down, who insisted I drink some vodka with them. I obliged. They were awesome guys who were super excited to have met a foreigner over here. Due to my limited Russian, the conversation got a bit dry after a while but then the vodka kicked in and we laughed like old friends.

I was sufficiently tipsy by the time I got going, though the long hike ahead sobered me up! The trail kept going and going but eventually at 1 am the park had ended and the old rural road was in sight. An old beat-up taxi turned up and offered a lift back to the hostel for 100som. On the way we picked up another hiker, the clumsy and funny Chinese guy!

I had to do a bit of repacking and eat a hearty lunch and by 2.30pm I was ready to move on. I stopped by Karakol coffee for a quick pick me up. It was alright but didn't give me quite the kick like the coffee from yesterday.

Tosor

Arrived in Tosor just after 5 at a lone bus stop almost in the middle of nowhere. Hidden behind the trees and bushes were streets and many houses. I walked around for the next 40 minutes searching for this elusive campsite I had heard about from the middle-aged German guy back in Shymkent. What was really surprising here was the fact that I only saw one adult on the streets the whole time. The rest of the village seemed to smalls kids mostly riding bicycles and repeatedly saying hello when passing me.

I stayed at a campsite just behind Eldos Ata hostel. I’m unsure what it’s actually called but it’s essentially a few yurts as well as small facility buildings toilets, showers, etc. I walked into the kitchen to boil some water but the landlady came in and started shooing me out. Apparently, nobody is allowed in the kitchen, so she showed me the recreation salon and brought me tea and snacks. It was a typical salon room in central Asian/Iranian style, so no actual chairs but carpets and cushions with low tables.

I then strolled over to the beach for sunset. The view was nice but the beach was dark red and very pebbly, in fact, one of the pebbliest I’ve stepped foot on. Soon, a group of kids approached and started saying hello followed by Kyrgyz. I told them I speak some Russian so seeing my camera they asked if I could take some photos of them and then asked me the usual questions, name, age, etc. I bumped into a French guy on the way back who has been hitchhiking around the world for over a year.

Day 21 - Journey back to Bishkek

I decided to take up the offer of a home-cooked breakfast from the camping ground host for a bit of an additional tip to the lodging fee, about 600som. It was the type of breakfast where lovely Samara kept filling my plates with omelets until I could barely move. After completing checkout formalities I left my luggage behind and wondered over to the lake for a dip. It was deserted but the water sure was beautiful, and fresh.

I cut through the town on the way back in order to avoid all those pebbles just outside the campsite. On the way, I encountered this abandoned tank in the middle of the street. I wonder how long it had been here for, as there is no army presence nearby as far as I'm aware.

It was about a half hour walk in the midday sun to the main road, where several people lined the street flagging buses and cars. I eventually jumped on the Bishkek bound 105. Seriously, this was probably the bumpiest bus ride I’ve been on. A bit like a roller coaster ride, for 4 hours!

So fellow travelers, if you have either a bad back, full bladder, stomach pain, or mild travel nausea, I DO NOT recommend a marshrutka ride across the southern shore. But if you’re feeling adventurous, and have a back of steel go for it!! 👍