Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide

Running along the southeastern border of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan is a much smaller, poorer, yet very picturesque country in a compact form.

It can be somewhat difficult to get around in for the average English speaking backpacker, but at the same time, it is also quite rewarding. Most of the locals are more than happy to help the lost foreigner (just stay away from overeager taxi drivers or loiterers around the bus terminals) without expecting anything in return. The mere fact they met a stranger from afar will bring real joy. The language and cultural barrier can really enlighten a traveler's awareness of this individual and unique Central Asian country.

If you know some Russian already or are thinking of learning, do so. It is very much used extensively throughout the country, at a native speaker level, and is even the first language for many Kyrgyz, particularly city dwellers and middle-aged or elderly locals who grew up during the USSR days.

If you don't know any Russian, then be sure to reach out to a CBT (Community Based Tourism) center. The places I cover are those that I have personally been to, as shown in the map below. I believe there is still much more to experience in this mountainous country, and will update this guide as soon as I revisit.

Visa requirements - visa-free access for most western and developed countries

Depending on your nationality, you are either eligible for a 30 or 60 day visa on arrival, or no visa whatsoever for a 30 day period. EU citizens can go for the latter, as well as US and Australian citizens. For other countries, it is best to consult the foreign

Land border

If travelling from Kazakhstan (Almaty) as I did, then a shared taxi is the most straightforward bet. You'll need to go to Sarayan Long Distance Station in Bishkek, it is about a 15-minute walk from Moscow metro station. For a look at how I did it, please refer to my blog post. You'll most likely be taking the 100, which will have a Bishkek sign (Бишкек) on the windscreen.

Border crossing

You will need to exit your shared taxi/car and cross the border by foot. Be sure to take your luggage as well if travelling by shared taxi or bus. It hasn't happened to me personally, but there have been stories of travellers losing their ride and the luggage with it. Your luggage will be scanned by a similar device used at airports. Immigration control may be a bit hectic with no clear queue existing. My advice is to just patiently follow the person directly in front of you. Immigration gave me a thorough staredown, and will probably do the same to you if you are from a non-Central Asian country. Just smile and calmly answers their questions. If they are in Russian and you don't understand just say (Nye pahni mayu).

Once through, just ignore all the taxi drivers trying to pounce on you and head over to your shared taxi which should be waiting at or near the little parking lot, or look around for local minibuses that go into Bishkek for just 50som.

By air

If coming from Europe or even further then this will most likely be your entry point. Air Manas is said to have the cheapest and most common flights, followed by Pegasus Air and Aeroflot. Manas International airport website is also in English however, it is somewhat limited.

By Rail

The train network in Kyrgyzstan is limited due to the mountainous terrain and lack of funding and maintenance by the government. At the moment there are two international routes: Moscow - Bishkek, and Tashkent - Bishkek.

Moscow route

It's important to note that this route transits Kazakhstan but not Uzbekistan, and doesn't pass through Almaty but instead goes through Taras-Shymkent-Kyzyl Orda-Aqtobe-Orenburg-Samara.

Tashkent route

This summer train will take you direct from Tashkent to Bishkek, passing through Kazakhstan. The final stop is in Balykchy at the western shore of Issyl-Kul.

The official language Kyrgyz is a turkic language, and as such shares much in common with Uzbek and Kazakh, being mutually intelligible in some aspects. It is to a slightly lesser extent related to Turkish, Azerbaijani, and Tatar, so if you know any of those tongues you should be able to get by fine.

If you know some Russian already or are thinking of learning, do so. It is very much used extensively throughout the country, at a native speaker level, and is even the first language for many Kyrgyz, particularly city dwellers and middle-aged or elderly locals who grew up during the USSR days.

I'd suggest investing in a Russian phrasebook and dictionary or learning Russian to a basic level or even better, basic communication level so to get the most out of your experience. Take note however, that in remote and rural areas Kyrgyz will be more in prevalent and therefore useful

What Money?

In Kyrgyzstan the local currency is the Kyrgyz Som. As of August 2019, 1USD is 69.85 Som.

US Dollars, Euros, and Russian Roubles are readily exchanged in banks and most exhange offices, particularly in the capital Bishkek. Other currencies will be harder to exchange however you may have some luck with the major banks in the capital. You should also be able to exchange Kazakh Tenge or Uzbek Som in most places.

Readily available in Bishkek, ATMs are much rarer in other cities so be sure to look up the locations on the bank websites. Also, VISA cards are far more accepted than Mastercard or Maestro cards, particularly from foreign countries.

How Much?

Kyrgyzstan is considered a poor and developing country and as such, is very cheap for backpackers, even during Summer. A typical dorm room in a decent hostel in the big cities will set you back around $4-6US a night.

A big stomach bursting meal can be had for under $3. The cheapest options for good food are no-thrills local restaurants that are typically loud and full of local families. You will need basic Russian or Kyrgyz knowledge though. Alcohol is available mostly in the form of vodka, which can be purchased for a few dollars

Bribery

Like with the other former Soviet Central Asian countries, corruption is a recurring problem in Kyrgyzstan, more so than in its neighbouring countries.

The Kyrgyz locals are amongst the most friendly and humble people I have ever come across, perhaps second only to Iranians. Upon seeing you on the street, some may initially come across as surprised maybe even suspicious, but that is mostly the curiousity relating to the country only very recently experiencing a growth in tourism. It is however still a very poor country, and as a result much of the population place emphasis on family and traditional customs and experience, as opposed to the excess materialism that you experience in the US and in some extent Western Europe.

Elderly Kyrgyz may smile and stare at you curiously, but it is the younger generations that will walk up to you and start talking, often with how are you in Russian, and if followed by no reply from you, then “English?”. Like in mosty developing countries, your wealth and ‘touristic vibe’ will be very obvious and as such, I would still advise being wary of your possessions if walking around a busy market area such as Osh Bazaar in Bishkek.

Kyrgyzstan is a multiethnic country with people of different faiths co-existing together, however the majority is Muslim. It is not as secular as Kazakhstan yet less conservative than neighbours Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.

Modesty is advised particularly in the conservative south west of the country. In Bishkek if you wear revealing clothing you may attract curious stares and/or glares.

Following the state-atheism policy of the Soviet Union, multiple mosques and churches and propped up throughout the country.

Kyrgyz food, like most cuisine in Central Asia, is very meat rich, and simply put if you are a vegetarian or a vegan, you may have a very trying time finding a meal in this country.

A staple fixture in almost every meal is the traditional bread, called Naan. Bread is sacred to the Kyrgyz, and anywhere you are a guest you will almost always be offered tea with naan. You can buy it almost anywhere and as such you will never go hungry, just buy some jam or condensed milk to dip it in.

The cuisine is often mutton, horse, and beef. You can find it in a variety of soups, stews and dishes. Don’t leave the country without trying Beshbarmak, a national favourite. It consists of finely chopped boiled meat, almost always mutton, combined with noodles, and flavoured with onion sauce. This is a very nomadic dish and will most likely be most common dish in smaller more local restaurants in addition to plov or pilov.

Drink

Wondering around Osh bazaar in Bishkek, you are very likely to come across older ladies selling a fermented beverage called Kyrmyz in very large bottles. The drink looks identical to milk but let me ensure you it tastes nothing like it. If anything I found reminiscent to strong fortified wine.

If you would like to try something local but none alcoholic, try Maksim. It is a fermented grain drink, and definitely an acquired taste. It should be consumed chilled if you wish to tolerate the distinct taste. Some say that it is amongst the healthiest beverages you can drink and if you can stomach it, drink it regularly.

Unless arriving from the south via Tajikistan, Bishkek will be your first stop and experience of Kyrgyzstan. It is far from a typical major capital city, and is very much so a developing city in some regards, Instead, what it offers to the outsider is a genuine Kyrgyz experience, an opportunity to see your everyday Kyrgyz city dweller, and the unique identify of this country.

Though the architecture can be imposing and brutalist due to the former Soviet Socialist city's past, not to mention needing maintenance, the most interesting aspect of the city is absorbing the urban Central Asian vibe, the hurried hustle of the main strip and the bazaar, soaking in the Zhirgal Banya, or walking around in the numerous green parks.

Where to stay

There are many accommodation options in Bishkek, with just about all of them ridiculously cheap to the tourist from afar. Hostels are of course the number one choice for backpackers, and a decent selection is available, with several highly rated in Booking.com.

I stayed at Friends Hostel, which is run by a local Kyrgyz family. It is a great place, clean and cosy, with the hosts going the extra mile to make you feel at home. In addition to this, Nurik speaks English, and will enthusiastically assist you with organising your adventures in Bishkek, surrounding areas, or anywhere in Kyrgyzstan.

Osh Bazaar

To the west of the city centre and just south west of the western bus station is the largest and main market and bazaar of Bishkek. One can find almost any food items, common household goods, a very large variety of clothing, musical instruments, and souvenirs.

There is a large souvenir section that can be tricky to find, so just ask anybody at the stalls who will be more than happy to help and gladly point you in the right direction. Just say "gdye suveniry?"

About 40 kilometres south of Bishkek. It is part of the Kyrgyz section of the Tian Shan mountain range. Definitely worth seeing if you like nature. It is also a first stop for many mountain hiking and climbing enthusiasts visiting Kyrgyzstan. The elevation ranges from 1500m above sea level at the entrance, to 4850m at the peak of Semenova Tian-Shanski. There are a variety of peaks, most between the 3500m and 4500m above sea level range. Typical mountain conditions apply so make sure you are packed for all seasons. During my one day hike I did in fact experience all four seasons. Also be wary of altitute sickness above 3000m.

A trek here can certainly be done as a day trip, though if you are short of time it is recommended you do it with a guide and driver who will wait for you while you are on your trek. There is a bus that goes to the national park, the 265 bound to Kashka Suu is one such service. It will stop at the entrance that is 12km from the start of the trail, so you'll need to get an additional ride to the start.

A ride back to Bishkek however can be a bit more difficult to organise if there are no idle drivers waiting at the base. In many cases an additional fee applies in ordering a taxi to come from Bishkek. Another option if you have some spare time is to hitch hike it like I did. Be prepared to wait a while though. I waited around an hour for somebody to pull over.

Ak-Sai Glacier trek

The ascent at first runs through woodland so if you’re here in Spring or Summer, be wary of ticks. After about 20 or so minutes (if you’re going at a good pace) you will experience steeper inclines and an increase scree. The trail will more or less be like this with brief bits of woodland until you reach the trail to the waterfall after 4km. From here it is a much steeper 2.4km to the Razeka station, a small wooden hut and camping ground. This section is the more intense part of the hike and it is actually quite easy to leave the trail so make sure you see the wooden tags every now and then. From Razeka station you will get a decent view of the glacier.

The mountain resort town of Kyrgyzstan, Karakol is the place to be for snow/mountain sports, extreme sports, nomad experiences, or multi day wild mountain climbs.

The town itself is worth spending a day in, with a more laid back, rural yet developing vibe to it. It is quite small and you can traverse it in a single morning.

The bazaar here is significantly smaller than Osh Bazaar in Bishkek, however it still gets quite busy. Clothing and some other options will be more limited. However, traditional Kyrgyz goods and crafts, and food will be very plentiful, and just as cheap as Bishkek.

Nomadic Kyrgyz Horse Riding

With mountain climbing and trekking by far the most popular activity of choice, it is also possible to go horse ridding amongst other activities. Bulak Say Horseback and Trekking offer a decent horse trekking experience, especially if you book together with a group of people. They are located in Zholgot, a village right next to Karakol. It can be reached by a short bus ride followed by a 20 minut walk through the countryside, or a taxi for less than $1.5. Once there, a guy called Joki will organise the horses and provide basic horse riding lessons if you’ve never ridden a horse before.

Where to stay

There are a number of homestays, hostels, and hotels to stay at, which can easily be found at booking.com

I personally recommend Duet Hostel, located walking distance to the centre of town. It's a cosy, modern hostel with dorm accomodation as well as traditional fully furnished yurts in the outdoor area. Bear in mind that it can get quite cool at night even in Spring and Summer so bring something warm if you stay in the yurts.

The owners are very helpful and knowledgable of the area, and can also help you out in booking or making any reservations for hiking/camping equipment, ski gear, horse trekking, and transportation.

A large valley and mountain resort close to Karakol, it is the most popular destination for visitors to Karakol. It is quite large and in order to scale any of the peaks or cross the valley you will need at least a few days. However it is possible to experience part of the valley with 2 days set aside.

As I was getting a bit short on time when I arrived in Karakol, I did the quick option. It is a 15 km hike to get to the valley and it does get steeper and rocky later on, however it is definitely doable for unexperienced hikers. Just make sure to bring plenty of water and clothing for all seasons and mountain conditions are prevalent here.

It is possible to camp in the Altyn Arashan valley or you can stay at the Eco Yurt Bed and Breakfast, who provide really nice and large yurts for a good night’s sleep. They also provide a really nice traditional local style dinner and breakfast, so you don’t need to worry about cooking a camp style meal.

The ascent at first runs through woodland so if you’re here in Spring or Summer, be wary of ticks. After about 20 or so minutes (if you’re going at a good pace) you will experience steeper inclines and an increase scree. The trail will more or less be like this with brief bits of woodland until you reach the trail to the waterfall after 4km. From here it is a much steeper 2.4km to the Razeka station, a small wooden hut and camping ground. This section is the more intense part of the hike and it is actually quite easy to leave the trail so make sure you see the wooden tags every now and then. From Razeka station you will get a decent view of the glacier.

Tosor

This small village by the southern shore of Issyk Kul is a nice place if you want to relax and it isn’t peak season. The lake is remarkably tranquil and quite clean (offseason), though it can be quite cool in the mornings. Note that this isn’t a foreign tourist destination so most of the locals don’t understand any English. You should be fine with some Russian knowledge though.

To get here from Karakol or somewhere in the east, you will need to hop on a marshutka or bus most likely bound for Bishkek. Otherwise if traveling from Bishkek, find a marshutka that is heading to Karakol or Kara-Say. Make sure to ask whether they will drive along the southern shore of Issyk Kul and pass by Tosor. The stop will be in the middle of nowhere, however from here it is only a 5 minute walk to the village.